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SustainabilityLesson 4 of 7

Manure management

Breakout About 5 min readNew to you

What you’ll learn

  • The federal waiting periods between raw manure and harvest
  • Which manures never go on a food garden
  • What each manure brings, and how much to spread
  • Deep litter in the coop and animals on garden beds
  • Storing manure away from wells and streams

The short version

  1. The safety line is 131°F for 3 days throughout the pile, or 15 days with 5 turnings in a turned row. Most home piles don't reach it evenly, so treat them as not fully pathogen- or weed-seed-free.

  2. Raw manure goes on in fall, not spring. The organic rule requires 120 days before harvesting crops that touch soil and 90 days for others. FDA has no set number yet but calls following those intervals "prudent".

  3. Never use dog, cat, pig or human manure on food gardens.

  4. Test outside hay, straw, manure and compost with a pea or bean pot before using it. Some weed killers survive animals and composting and twist tomato and bean leaves for years.

Manure and bedding

What each manure brings

ManureN–P–K (%)C:NNotes
Chicken~2.0–2.7–1.4~8:1Rich and salty; wait 3–4 weeks after fresh application before planting
Rabbit~2.3–1.1–0.4~10:1Nitrogen near chicken's. No Tier 1 source supports calling it safe to use raw
Sheep~1.0–0.5–1.0~25:1—
Beef / dairy~0.9–0.6–1.1 / 0.8–0.5–1.2~13–15:1A 1,000-lb cow makes about 15 tons a year
Horse~0.7–0.4–1.1~17:1About 40–57 lb a day; straw bedding composts more easily than shavings
Goat~0.4–0.5–0.1~31:1—

Values vary with feed and bedding. Test if it matters.

How much to use

University of Wisconsin rates per 100 sq ft, each supplying about 0.2 lb of plant-available nitrogen. A 5-gallon bucket holds about 25 lb.

ManureRaw, no beddingRaw, with beddingComposted
Poultry20 lb30 lb70 lb
Dairy75 lb95 lb200 lb
Sheep40 lb50 lb—
Horse—65 lb—

Don't overdo it. Manure brings more phosphorus and salt than plants need relative to nitrogen, so repeated heavy use builds them up. Base rates on a soil test.

When

  • Raw manure: in the fall, worked in, followed by a cover crop. UMaine says sow the cover crop by October 1.

  • Finished compost (that met the heat standard): spring is fine.

Deep litter in the chicken coop

  • Start: 4–6 in of straw or shavings in fall.

  • Through winter: stir droppings down and add fresh bedding on top. The decomposing layer adds a little warmth.

  • Spring: clean out fully.

  • Treat spent litter as raw manure. Hot-compost it, or apply it in fall with the 120/90-day waiting periods.

  • Sources disagree on depth and whether to keep a base layer.

Chickens and other animals on garden beds

Animals on beds leave raw manure. Researchers say such ground "should be treated as if raw manure has been applied".

  • Chickens: chicken tractors on vegetable beds doubled soil nitrate.

  • Sheep: in a sheep-grazing study, E. coli stayed elevated for about 2–3 months and returned to normal after about 3–4 months.

  • What it means: run animals on beds after harvest in fall, well ahead of next season's planting.

Storing manure

Rutgers suggests these distances:

  • Wells and streams: 100–200 ft.

  • Property lines: 50–100 ft.

  • Homes: 200–500 ft.

Minnesota requires at least 100 ft from private wells. Also:

  • Cover the pile. Uncovered manure loses about a third of its value in 3 months.

  • Don't spread on frozen or snowy ground.

  • Keep it dry to cut flies, and clear winter piles before fly season.

Diagram coming soonManure nutrient chart
Figure 2. What each manure brings.
Diagram coming soonManure storage setbacks
Figure 3. Keep manure piles well away from water.
Sources: Utah State University Extension, University of Wisconsin Extension and 12 more

The safety rules

Diagram coming soonRaw manure calendar
Figure 1. Raw manure in fall, a cover crop over winter, planting in spring.
Sources: USDA National Organic Program, Published research and 12 more

Resources

By zone

Frozen ground, wet winters and salty desert soils all change how manure is handled.

3–4
Small piles freeze before heating. Start in May–June, or build a big pile in late summer to cure over winter. Worm bins go indoors (keep above about 55°F). Don't spread manure on frozen ground.
5–6
Larger piles (5 × 5 ft) keep working into winter. Apply raw manure in fall with a cover crop. Deep litter in winter coops.
7–8
Composting runs most of the year. Cover piles in heavy rain. Watch for jumping worms in bought mulch.
9–10
Heat speeds things up, but dryness slows them in the arid West: shade piles and water weekly. Worm bins need full shade. Go light on manure where soils are salty or alkaline.
Northeast
short season, so start piles in late spring and keep worm bins indoors.
Southeast
heavy rain, so cover piles and build them steep. Jumping worms are widespread.
Midwest
fall manure and cover crops, no spreading on frozen ground, jumping worms.
Southwest
shade and water piles, shape tops to catch water, skip wood ash, and watch salts.
Pacific Northwest
roof or cover bins through wet winters.
Mountain West
build bigger piles and water regularly.

Where this comes from

Every fact in this lesson was checked against 39 published sources, all from extension services, the USDA and research journals. Each section lists its own at the bottom.

See all 39 sources
University of Illinois Extension
Washington State University Extension
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources

Summary

The whole lesson on one page. Print it or come back to it.

Key information

  • Raw manure must go on at least 120 days before harvesting crops that touch the soil, 90 days for others (USDA organic rule). FDA calls following that 'prudent'.
  • Aged manure is not composted manure. Only compost that held 131°F counts as treated.
  • Never use dog, cat, pig or human manure on food gardens, and never side-dress growing crops with raw manure.
  • Chickens run on beds count as raw manure: run them in fall, well before planting.
  • Spread in fall with a cover crop; never on frozen or snowy ground.
  • Store piles covered and well away from wells, streams and property lines.

Step by step

  1. 1.Test outside hay, straw or manure with a pea pot before using it.
  2. 2.Spread raw manure in fall, work it in, and sow a cover crop.
  3. 3.Use soil-test results to set rates; manure builds up phosphorus and salts.
  4. 4.Hot-compost anything you want to use in spring.
  5. 5.Keep stored manure covered and at least 100 ft from wells.

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